|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-11-2012 12:00 AM|
|dadstoy||Congratulations on your new purchase. Just make sure the title and serial numbers all mach up.|
|08-10-2012 10:21 PM|
I am buying it. I would post some pictures, but I don't feel comfortable taking pictures of the inside of his garage. He runs a business out of it, so just for courtesy...in a few weeks when I cram it into my garage (I've got a lot of rearranging to do hehe).
I took another look at it, and the frame is in awesome condition. Only surface rust. I took a brass hammer to all of it, and was rewarded with very solid sounds. Even the convertible frame boxing had sharp edges.
The rear floor pans looked better on the bottom than on top. All black and felt very solid. The oval holes weren't all torn up. In better light, I saw the trunk pan is still 95% spatter gray.
I think I may have stumbled across the reason for the good condition. One of the rear corners (one of the only parts of the car not in primer) was still blue. (the same blue as yours, dadstoy). There was some crazy pinstriping on it. The kind you might find on a Southwestern car, if you get my point.
I am thinking this car must have spent a good portion of its life where it was warm, and they don't salt roads. He even pointed out the new door interior panels and carpet (both in boxes still!). Even if they turn out to be cheapie versions (and not my favorite color), I might use them for a while, just to make it presentable.
Anyway, thanks for the advice guys...I will be taking it home in a few weeks, after I make room for it.
|08-08-2012 08:27 PM|
|dadstoy||Danube blue is a deep dark blue. I have a 67 Camaro thats supposed to be close to that. (Another project). Anyway our 65 Convertible is painted Tahitian Turquoise. Its a 65 Impala color. And yes BA is right, we drive it everywhere. Over 3000 miles last winter to Daytona and a few other places on vacation.|
|08-08-2012 08:26 PM|
Thanks for the advice, BA.
The convertible top frame can indeed be moved up and down by hand. It has no shake to it...the fittings/bushings all seem to be in good shape. The lines are disconnected, as I was warned it might squirt some "nasty fluid" on me if wasn't careful.
I was in my nice work clothes yesterday so I didn't want to get under the car (nasty fluid!), but rather took a flashlight and laid on a blanket beside the car, and just stuck my head under.
Looks like tomorrow, I will take some grungy clothes, and we will put it up on blocks so I can pick at the frame some more to probe out the whole thing. I should be able to better evaluate under the seats too.
Depending on what I find, I'll work on the price (always ). If I find anything serious with the frame, it's someone else's donor car.
|08-08-2012 07:16 PM|
Larry's not kidding, he'll jump in that thing and drive thousands of miles for vacation trips! (and has)
Sounds like you checked out the trunk area pretty well. Others have said, and I have had 2, that they tend to rust where the rear wheel-well meets the trunk pan. (very visible from inside the trunk)
Also, check under the rear seat. Sounds like you thoroughly checked that front floorboard area where your legs would be. Water collects in those places and stays, causing the rust. Remember the patch will be notably bigger than the rust hole. It can sound ok by knocking on it, but the surrounding area gets thin long before rusting through.
Make sure the Vert top frame moves freely up and down by hand if you can. If the pump-motor is dead, It's possible that it's also had the plastic fluid lines disconnected which would let you move the top by hand.
From your description - I'd say that $2500 isn't too bad, I would try for $2000.
|08-08-2012 05:43 PM|
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
|08-08-2012 05:29 PM|
I bought the best I could afford at the time. It had no floors, it had no trunk, it had no top. it had no interior. It needed lots of body work. It had a hurt engine. It was the car that I wanted to bring back from the dead.
Now its one of the best driving cars I have ever owned. I say buy it.
|08-08-2012 01:41 PM|
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Thanks. I am at this point trying to decide if I can commit to what will be a HUGE investment of time. Plus figuring out the best method of approaching certain members of the other side of my family, largely comprised of expert car upholstery men.
|08-08-2012 01:21 PM|
Welcome to the Team Bryce!
From your analysis of the car I believe you know which end of a screw driver to hold. Your evaluation sounds to me as if this was a former one owner cream puff that someone hot rodded in the past and had minor collision damage that he though he could repair. I suspect the quarters were replaced more to cover up his parking by ear than due to rusting away.
Since you didn't note any buckling of or bent frame rails I would assume the damage was more cosmetic than structural. What you are describing sounds to me to be an excellent buy.
|08-08-2012 01:06 PM|
Welcome to the site.
One rule of thumb that I have heard is to buy the nicest car you can afford and go from there. Seems like it costs more to do than to buy it already done
100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
|08-08-2012 12:24 PM|
Well, since I see others have been well-received in the welcome forum when they ask specific questions about a prospective purchase, I will add mine here.
An acquaintance of a friend called me at work yesterday, knowing that I had been on the lookout for a 65 convertible. I went and took a look at it.
Here is the rundown:
It is definitely a project car. It rolls, but has no engine or trans. This is actually a good thing for me, as I plan on putting a big block and 4L80e in it. The non-original 283 and T350 that used to be in it hold no value for me.
Top and boot are non-existent but figure I would replace all that eventually even if in so-so-shape. Good thing is, the frame articulates smoothly and only has one or two small rust spots that could be touched up easily. Surprisingly, no rust at all below top. All of the clamps and brackets are there, even the sun visors. Of course the 47-year old pump doesn't work...assumed that.
Doors are in good shape, no rust in bottoms at all. Rocker panels are even rust-free and solid.
All the glass is there. All of the door interior panels are there.
At some point, someone removed the shift lever from the stock steering column and put a 3-speed floor shifter on the trans hump.
The seats appear to be in good shape, need a little work on the metal trim, but the upholstery...I'm not sure if it is original or not. It's in decent shape, but I will definitely replace it eventually for a different color.
The body is in fair shape. The doghouse is all good and straight. The left rear quarter is hacked up, but a new left rear quarter is included. The right had a matching rear quarter put on it, but they botched the job, and it will have to be redone. Most of the body is in primer, which can hide a lot of flaws, but I did not see any filler on this car except the right rear quarter.
The trunk is pretty solid. A few rust spots to maybe patch, but probably won't need a new pan. The rear floorboards are solid..a little surface rust. The front floorboards are fair to marginal. They could probably stand to be replaced, at which point I would just do both front and back.
A couple of new wheel wells will be needed.
All of the trim is there, and in good shape. A few little dents to fix here and there. Probably won't require much replacement.
The frame, after only a modest inspection, seems good. I checked at the rear wheels an only saw a little surface rust. The frame in front has already been painted by the guy, but I poked around on it and didn't see any bad decay.
It has a 12-bolt rear, who knows if it's factory or not. The drive shafts (it comes with an extra one) are lying next to it. The dual exhaust system is lying next to those drive shafts. (This kind of makes me wonder what exactly was in this car...it might have been hot-rodded at some point.)
The car comes with a lot of extras...new sound deadening mat (still rolled in the box even), extra hood, extra body pieces. It even comes with 4 old steel Corvette rally wheels in good shape I could possibly re-sell.
All in all, the guy wants $2500 for it and will even trailer it to me on his dime. I've seen $4000-$5000 cars that looked better and were drivers, but like I said, a lot of that "value" doesn't mean much to me. I want my car to be personal to me, so it will all be redone, as much by my own hands as my skill level and knowledge will permit.
I would plan on a full disc brake conversion too, so I would almost be paying for a roller body
Barring photographs, but based on my description...do you think $2500 is a good deal on this car? The title is clean.
|08-08-2012 11:23 AM|
I am an Electrical Engineer who has for years wished to find a 1965 Impala Convertible and make a fun muscle car out of it (big block of course ). As luck would have it, that wish may be coming true soon (I'll post some questions elsewhere about it). Naturally, I thought this site should become my regular hangout.
I've been reading a ton already in the last day or so, and I must say great site. If I buy the car that was presented to me yesterday, I hope to be a frequent poster and contributor.